tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-15034300152949261872024-03-08T12:09:12.853-08:00Out of date blog :) Go to www.extremerigs.net insteadstrenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.comBlogger82125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-33252712257541422032012-11-19T15:55:00.003-08:002013-05-02T13:10:02.713-07:00New website!<span style="font-size: large;">For a while this blog was my website. However I quickly outgrew it and so I've launched my new shiny website which can be found here:</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.extremerigs.net/"><span style="font-size: x-large;">www.extremerigs.net</span></a><br />
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All static page content has been moved over and links put it in place. This blog will no longer be active so please refer to the new site for everything :)<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-35165295546443038192012-10-29T07:50:00.002-07:002012-10-29T07:50:28.234-07:00Koolance CPU-380 Review is doneYou can find it <a href="http://extremerigs.blogspot.com/p/koolance-cpu-380i-cpu-water-block-review.html">here</a><br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-89628556791282961582012-10-19T05:46:00.005-07:002012-10-19T05:46:53.900-07:00Painting Jameco Meanwell 24V PSU for the Iwaki RD-30<br />
Morpheus from OCN stopped by and gave me some fan splitters which come in very useful for the quick disconnect of the radiators. Each radiator has two 3 pin headers that come from each side. This little PCB is then attached to the backplate of the pedestal:<br />
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One for each side of the case. The distance between the two is conveniently sized to feed from a single molex<br />
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I also got done painting the 24V Power supply for the Iwaki pump. I don't think I showed a pic of it before, but it looked like a very beat up version of this:<br />
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<a href="http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/120427/766r1/4743lnl_20.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/120427/766r1/4743lnl_20.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Except that the mesh part was painted black on mine and had been worn off over time.<br />
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So I thought I'd paint the whole thing red and then mod a PSU support from the bottom heat chamber so that it can be mounted next to a fan from the HDD rack. I also need to hook up a relay so that it only turns on when the computer is on. Here are the pieces after painting and clear coating:<br />
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With the PSU back in and the heatsinks retimmed:<br />
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All sealed up:<br />
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That's it for now. Now that I have my windows PC up and running I can finally get sketch-up back and running and start playing with ideas for custom blocks and reservoirs!<br />
strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-1215817449540786252012-10-15T09:56:00.000-07:002012-10-15T09:56:03.747-07:00Corsair Dominator GTs!<br />
Well time for a bit of an update! A big thanks to <a href="http://www.corsair.com/">Corsair</a> for sponsoring the build :)<br />
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My original dominators (same part number) came in a much more boring box than this one:<br />
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And if you're wondering just how small those overclockable low profile sammy dimms are:<br />
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strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-38106878440422468492012-09-14T15:48:00.004-07:002012-09-14T15:48:43.461-07:00Thief again again again ;)<br />
Another update - big one too!<br />
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So this is where we were last time - gaming rig trying to get up and working in a temporary state. Main loop not yet connected:<br />
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To finish the main loop we needed to connect the EK400 reservoir with the custom 1" NPT tap to the Iwaki RD-30 pump. First we need to build a T section for the drain port:<br />
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These are standard schedule 40 pieces of PVC that I'm gluing together. I took a T junction and two 1/2" NPT reducers as well as a piece of 1" grey electrical conduit for making the 90 degree turn:<br />
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This is all based on amuseme's idea except that I'm using 1" pipe instead of 0.75" and I connect to the pump slightly differently. So now we have to connect to the pump:<br />
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So we take a 5/8" brass barb from your local hardware store and tape it up with teflon tape:<br />
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1/2" tube can be warmed up and stretched over the barb. The idea is that the barb lines up right next to the 5/8" input to the Iwaki giving less restriction to the input feed of the RD30 unlike regular 1/2" tube would. I also added a 2nd barb for the drain tube. This reservoir coupled with the 1" pipe means there is a lot of water that needs draining easily:<br />
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Both barbs in:<br />
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Now let's hook up the pump:<br />
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Add some worm clamps so that nothing flies free when you turn the pump up to 29V:<br />
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Now let's add the drain tube, the tube color is temporary for now:<br />
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Add the drain port:<br />
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Add a worm clamp and we're done for now:<br />
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Now it's time to put it in the case. As the reservoir was temporarily mounted we need to fix it first. There's a convenient metal plate in the case that you can unscrew and drill holes in:<br />
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Now let's reinstall that in the case:<br />
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And done:<br />
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The reservoir is fed by two drain ports. When feeding a larger amount of water it's useful to have one for water coming in and another for air coming out:<br />
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Now here's the Iwaki Plus feed tube situated in the base. The cardboard box will be replaced with anti-vibration gel soon enough:<br />
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Here you see the gap between the Iwaki feeding tube and the tapped base of the EK reservoir:<br />
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I cut a piece of schedule 40 tube to size to glue in here:<br />
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Later I will paint all of the tubes so it doesn't look so bad :p The cardboard box doesn't quite raise the Iwaki high enough so we'll need to swap that out:<br />
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But here it is fully connected:<br />
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And here's the whole side of the gaming case in it's temporary state:<br />
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Now we can add the 360 radiator back in quickly (30 seconds) due to the Koolance quick disconnect fittings and the CaseLabs side mount design:<br />
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I can't fit a 480 in because of the placement of the radiator and the feed tube. I may move it later, but for now this works. So it's time to fill up with water:<br />
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strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-20421396566621659172012-08-28T16:58:00.003-07:002012-08-28T16:58:26.804-07:00Project Thief Update #9723469<br />
Some of the pics from the last week's adventures:<br />
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Fitted the sniper to the 990x and installed some of the samsung superOC ram. Corsair promised to sponsor me some ram, but it never showed up and after 3 months of my emails being ignored I've officially given up on them :rolleyes:<br />
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I want to make a custom waterblock for the RAM anyway, but that's still a gleam in my eye right now :thumb: Time to get to leak testing on the motherboard loop:<br />
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After leak testing got done, I swapped the painted fan for one that worked and installed the motherboard tray into the *empty* chamber.<br />
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I need to swap out the circuit board from the broken GT fan for a good one and then swap back in the painted one. Now it's time to start hooking everything back up:<br />
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Plugged in the PSU cables, but the PSU is not yet there:<br />
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The sleeving is the stuff that came with the evga psu, that will be replaced with mdpc-x later:<br />
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Finally with a PSU:<br />
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Those extra 6 pin headers are annoying but the nice thing is that most of the PSU cables can be flipped so you can hide some of the extra unwarted parts by plugging them in the other way round :)<br />
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Tidying up a bit:<br />
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There's still so much to be done, and so much of this is still temporary e.g. fittings/sleeve/loop layout etc etc. But for now I'm just glad to be finally getting this rig up and working after 8 months!<br />
strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-75095861461476539972012-08-24T17:45:00.001-07:002012-08-24T17:45:05.725-07:00EVGA NEX 1500 PSU - Yes I won a competition<br />
Did a quick edit on the photos from yesterday:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/dOcLch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/dOcLch.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Also a quick and dirty video:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/agkdWhVasGA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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More to come later of it going in...<br />
strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-64793354778922207912012-08-13T12:42:00.003-07:002012-08-13T12:42:39.831-07:00Sleeving the HWLabs GTX560<br />
Finished up the gtx 560 - here are some pics. Getting ready to start:<br />
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Chopping some heatshrink:<br />
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2 fans done - ignore the yellow wire - I'm not actually hooking up the tach wire to the 12V, I just reused the yellow wire for the 12V line:<br />
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One thing I learned is that you don't have to join the wires all in the same place, in fact it's easier and less bulky if you join the 12V wires at one point, the 0V wires at another point and do the sleeving join at another point. This way you don't get one big lump. So don't do it like this is what I'm saying:<br />
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One side done - you can see the difference between the lumpy connection on the 3rd and 4th fan from the left, and the cleaner one on the 2nd/3rd:<br />
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Now we have to move those fans on to the other (push) side of the radiator. So we have to add the 140mm adapters to the other side of the fan, and remove the adapters from the original side:<br />
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All done with that side, now let's go do the same thing again for the pull side:<br />
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Attaching the fans for the pull side:<br />
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Nearly done - but the last piece of sleeve pulled out of the heatshrink:<br />
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Replaced that section and all done:<br />
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Installed - as you might be able to see, the section above with the low speed yates/HDDs still needs to be done:<br />
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As you can see there's still a ton to do in the bottom compartment:<br />
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This side that's open right now will house the ex560 that's currently being used for testing waterblocks, and the gtx 360 that I'm going to go wire up and sleeve right now :)<br />
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I have some ideas for lighting too that I'm going to test out also :)<br />
strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-3197933858388770902012-07-31T16:37:00.004-07:002012-07-31T16:37:56.283-07:00CPU Block Roundup 2012I made various posts in the forums for the up coming CPU block roundup:<br />
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You can find it at:<br />
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<a href="http://www.overclock.net/t/1287684/strens-2012-cpu-water-block-roundup/0_50">overclock.net</a><br />
<a href="http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1708036">hardforum</a><br />
<a href="http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?282245-Stren-s-2012-CPU-Water-Block-Roundup">xtremesytems</a><br />
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or at my <a href="http://extremerigs.net/">website</a>, however there are no polls or individual pics on my site yet ;) That will be updated as we get closer to results being ready ;)<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-4846898905900735142012-07-16T16:53:00.002-07:002012-07-16T16:53:20.463-07:00Thief Time<br />
I did get a little bit of time to work on the main build:<br />
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I decided to simplify my linux disk system. I had bene using a raid card, 4 ssds and 4 HDDs and now that large SSD prices were coming down it seemed like a good time to consolidate.<br />
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So I picked up a 512gb SSD to replace my 300 gigs worth made up of 4 drives:<br />
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As well as a 3TB drive to replace my 3x1TB drives<br />
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With linux drive if you're atuomatically mounting the drives then the order they get plugged in can matter. Going down to only 2 + an occasional backup makes life a lot easier when changing out motherboards.<br />
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I normally buy WD drives, but as they hadn't released a 7200rpm 3TB sata drive I went with Seagate<br />
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So I took out the side mount HDD system:<br />
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And started taking out drives:<br />
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The 512gb is actually smaller - 7mm tall while the older 128gb is 9mm:<br />
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Spare drives:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/tsXAhh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/tsXAhh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nearly done:<br />
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And done - the right drives will be for the gaming rig - 128gb boot, 2x128gb raid 0 for games, 32gb SLC for swap. The left drives are 512gb for boot/home of linux workstation, 128 temporary ssd that was left hooked up to transfer files, 3TB backup drive and 1TB old file storage.<br />
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Now to sell the old stuff:<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-67739180522463455262012-07-03T13:37:00.004-07:002012-07-06T09:04:34.369-07:00Building temperature sensors...<br />
Alright - while I haven't made progress on the project, I have made progress on the CPU water block review. Here's how I did the temperature sensors (some of these photos are repeats but are included for completeness as a how-to guide):<br />
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For this I was following <a href="http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=169">Rubidium's excellent guide</a> with some modifications. His guide is a must read if you're planning to copy this.<br />
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Dallas one wire temperature sensors are much more accurate than the standard 2 wire thermistor type sensors that are used in current water temperature probes. However they need to be water proofed and mounted in the loop which means some work on my part.<br />
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The package came in:<br />
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In addition to the main screen display, you'll need a SCAB module that enables the sensor monitoring, plus a USB cable, plus the temperature sensors too.<br />
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Here's the break down of how to plug it in<br />
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We also needed some other parts to build the temperature sensors into, the bitspower rotary q fitting is very flexible but has more ports than you'll probably need so you'll need to order some stop fittings or a different t adapter:<br />
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Here's what I ordered from mcmaster-carr at the top and at the bottom is a sample order for enough parts for one temp sensor from sidewinder (I had some parts already so only ordered what I needed). If you clean the stainless steel syringe well you may be able to reuse it, I ordered two just in case. The parts arrived:<br />
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I ordered the brass metal brush, I probably should have ordered something else though - maybe a steel one? Eitherway it seems to have worked for me. Brass barbs make life easier because otherwise you have to remove the nickel plating from the fitting.<br />
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First off rough up the surface of the temperature sensor, I used 220 grit regular sand paper:<br />
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Then rough up the interior surface of the barb using the metal brush (fit it in a drill and spend a few minutes doing the old in and out). I also sanded the end of the barb and it's chamfer with 220 grit. I then cut some small neoprene washers to fit around the temp sensors and hold it centered in the barb:<br />
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I bought the smallest I could find from home depot. If you can find something that's a perfect fit (any rubber grommet or washer that fits would be fine) then it would be better. You want to make the fit as perfect as possible otherwise the glue will leak past and it could ruin all your efforts. Fit a 2nd washer to keep the wire centered at the back of the barb. Now we're going to mix up the glue. Get your glue mats together:<br />
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I found about a quarter of the 1.7oz size would fill 2-3 3cc syringes. One 3cc syringe's worth is probably enough for 2 fittings. I mixed it in a disposable plastic shot glass that I had laying around.<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/MU5oRh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/MU5oRh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then take the plastic syringe, dip the end in and start sucking up the glue:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/b0eldh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/b0eldh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Stop when you have enough and wipe off the tip:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/ZwefEh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/ZwefEh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Attach the needle by screwing it on while pushing it in. Be careful to catch the glue that comes out while you do this:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/JV4fQh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/JV4fQh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fill up around the temperature sensor slowly avoiding making any bubbles. You will want to fill up just above the edge of the fitting as the glue will shrink down a bit. As the glue will run you need to secure it so that it doesn't run out. I put mine loosely in a vice:<br />
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Here they are after drying for 24 hours:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/p3nrCh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/p3nrCh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
You can see the glue is lower than the edge of the fitting. If your washer/grommet wasn't a good fit, a good amount of glue may have leaked past. If it's too low you can always top off later. <br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/H2rlZh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/H2rlZh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Now you're going to remove the grommet/washer and fill the other side of the fitting all the way to the top. Again take it slowly and avoid bubbles, keep going around and around the wires and try and keep the wires centered. Leave to dry in an upright position so that it doesn't run out the side:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/zAgJQh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/zAgJQh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
All done:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Pwhegh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/Pwhegh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
You can then mount them in the bitspower q fitting:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/1pCxkh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/1pCxkh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
I then added on my VL4N QDC's (along with g1/4 g3/8 adapters):<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Pn3Q8h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/Pn3Q8h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
You can then add stop fittings and mount to your favorite waterblock and then leak test:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/zunbbh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/zunbbh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Looks kinda frankenstein, but hopefully the performance will be worthwhile :thumb:<br />
<br />
I also made a video of the bench setup:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/eO0ec6NLfa8?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-42512054200963949622012-06-27T18:34:00.002-07:002012-06-27T18:34:20.736-07:00Audio & leak testing the test bench<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/LBIooh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="518" src="http://i.imgur.com/LBIooh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Box was huge, almost as wide as a 560 rad! The dac/amp is large too, much bigger than it seemed from photos:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/mrfxXh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/mrfxXh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Deep too:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/F9BRFh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/F9BRFh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Time to get the test bench up and running:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/6c8y3h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/6c8y3h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
The flow meter needed some barbs, I got these 1/2" brass barbs from home depot:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/JZc8lh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="574" src="http://i.imgur.com/JZc8lh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
I forgot that with no o-ring, you need teflon tape, that would bite me later. Clamped it down:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/3qv0Jh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="506" src="http://i.imgur.com/3qv0Jh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Matching one for the bottom input port:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/EZS8ch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/EZS8ch.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Hooked up the Iwaki RD30 pump fed directly from the 400mm reservoir:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/vBxpfh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/vBxpfh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
I had the return come in the bottom and used the longest internal tube to direct the flow to the top of the res in order to help bleeding. Then connected the CPU:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/R5pkYh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i.imgur.com/R5pkYh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Hooked up the rad, and ran out of clear tube, had to use some of the leftover pink:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/0svEZh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/0svEZh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Time to fill it up:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/jrsgbh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/jrsgbh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
2.55GPM while bleeding with the Iwaki at 19V, at 29V it was pushing a smidge over 3.5GPM:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/JRwBbh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/JRwBbh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Ready to start overclocking:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/6fRp2h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="482" src="http://i.imgur.com/6fRp2h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-80838210869589857442012-06-24T19:30:00.000-07:002012-06-24T19:30:05.164-07:00Building the Test Bench!<br />
Time for an update:<br />
<br />
I used the nice quick release thumb screws to remove the EX 560 radiator from the TX10. I used two extra pieces from the tech station to build a support beam for it:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/20xZih.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/20xZih.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then used some of the accessories to grip it either side so it was stable, but yet also quick to remove:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/LHtdyh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/LHtdyh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then the 2nd R4E board came in:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Y7lwxh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/Y7lwxh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
And a 2nd cpu:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/KDOHdh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/KDOHdh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Installed the motherboard - I learned I should loosen the standoffs from the tray a little as they holes have enough movement that the standoffs may be mispositioned. After screwing everything in I want back and tightened it. Then added the cpu:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Liy8Lh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/Liy8Lh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then some ram:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/5dNfFh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/5dNfFh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then removed the ram in order to fit the DT 5Noz using the Sniper thumbnuts:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/JhV8sh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/JhV8sh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then put the ram back in:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/RcQAdh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/RcQAdh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Added a gpu (9800 gt is enough for the cpu test) and that's it for now!<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-14294639950188501792012-06-17T16:10:00.005-07:002012-06-17T16:10:52.789-07:00Test gear!<br />
I also had ordered a crystalfontz setup so that I could monitor temps accurately, although the aquaero is more of a system, it doesn't support the dallas temp probes that can be calibrated to <0.1C accuracy. This setup should let me do that. The package arrived while I was away:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/hKh9ph.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://i.imgur.com/hKh9ph.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
More packaging:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/zb74Dh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/zb74Dh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Taking it out of the bag - it's the 635 module with the 4 line LCD:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/WDy4yh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/WDy4yh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
They'd pre fitted the SCAB module which enables the temp sensors to be hooked up:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/wQzIIh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/wQzIIh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Not quite sure what was with the stray spray paint:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/f7njNh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/f7njNh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Decided to mount it on the top of the test bench:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/OcmfOh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/OcmfOh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
However the right side couldn't be screwed down so I added some support so I could at least push the buttons if needed:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/kdVGgh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/kdVGgh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
The test bench came with extra extrusion pieces so you can add on extra devices, I decided to use my RD30 pump for the cpu block test:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/BTihSh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/BTihSh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I'd also ordered a King Instruments flow meter (similar to the one Martin uses):<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/BbSJSh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/BbSJSh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
It's more accurate and less restrictive than the impeller types. However it's large - here it is zip tied to the case next to the 400mm EK res:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/uKpHvh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i.imgur.com/uKpHvh.jpg" width="486" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
And now the final setup waiting for the 2nd R4E/3930K to arrive:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/KIhXwh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/KIhXwh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/KPg5Ih.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/KPg5Ih.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
<br /></div>strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-34017155406034524142012-06-16T15:52:00.005-07:002012-06-16T15:52:58.833-07:00Post Vacation - Getting back to it!<br />
Ok so a quick recap -not much had been done the last few weeks as I was busy with work and then went on a brief vacation. Now I'm back the build will continue, however I'll also be doing various things in between including a review of <a href="http://richchomiczewski.wordpress.com/">Rich Chomiczewski</a> aka Spotswood's new tech station. I'll also be doing a CPU waterblock round up which will include:<br />
<br />
DT Sniper<br />
DT 5Noz<br />
EK Supremacy<br />
EK Supreme HF<br />
XSPC Raystorm<br />
XSPC Rasa<br />
MIPS Iceforce HF<br />
<br />
Thanks to DT, EK and Indigo Xtreme for sponsoring the blocks and TIM, thanks to Rich for sponsoring the tech station which will be used as the test bench :D<br />
<br />
So without further ado, let's get back to some pictures :D<br />
<br />
The tech station arrived from Rich in a fairly small box:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/b3Aoqh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/b3Aoqh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
However there was still plenty of room for packing:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/JPwPah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/JPwPah.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
The case comes "mostly" assembled, here's the motherboard tray:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/JZodXh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/JZodXh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
that mounts above the base which includes mounts for DVD drives, HDs and SSDs:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/OS2fQh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/OS2fQh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Here's the rest of the frame:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/mQT2Oh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://i.imgur.com/mQT2Oh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
And all the screws and accessories, interestingly Rich includes an allen driver, as well as an allen key, and a torx key also<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/DoLzPh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/DoLzPh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The frame makes use of extruded aluminum with a pattern that makes it easy to use screws and bolts/nuts to easily customize the setup. Here's one vertical strut getting slid onto the base:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/7BFhSh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="492" src="http://i.imgur.com/7BFhSh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
There is then a hole allowing that screw to be tightened. Before you know it all 4 are up:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/MEl5Dh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/MEl5Dh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
You can then add some feet:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/xbVvjh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/xbVvjh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then attach the PCI card support to the motherboard tray and then attach both to the frame:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/rRgV7h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i.imgur.com/rRgV7h.jpg" width="490" /></a></div>
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<br />
Then the PSU can be attached with two small plates:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i.imgur.com/O3HO1h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/O3HO1h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Although this is solid enough for benching (and the PSU does not move), a 4 screw mount would be more solid if you were moving the case as there is potential for the PSU to bend those small plates. The hard drives, dvd and SSDs use small rubber grommets that get screwed into the base of each device:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/2M1iDh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/2M1iDh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
You can then slide these on the same extruded frames which have pre drilled access holes to make it easy to swap them in and out:<br />
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More to come tomorrow!<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-72499646393480778372012-05-29T20:45:00.000-07:002012-05-29T20:45:00.999-07:00Now with 100% more VRAM!<br />
Been slow on the updates because work has been kicking my behind. Anyway the 580 3gb cards came in. I know some of you may say why not get 680's (or even 670's), well these were a lot cheaper (awesome 2nd hand deal) and will perform plenty well enough to max out 2560x1600 @ 60Hz. With my 480's I never had a problem running out of processing power, but I did run out of vram, so I think these will be plenty until I upgrade the monitors ;) Once I upgrade then I'm sure I can justify a few GK110s ;)<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/TnubOh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/TnubOh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see two of the backplates are 480 ones:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/uyMF1h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="494" src="http://i.imgur.com/uyMF1h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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So I had to switch the cards around so that the 580 one was at the bottom of the stack. I had to take them apart anyway to check for nickel problems and gunk. I'd be more concerned if I wasn't suspecting that I'll change GPUs again before the build is finished. Here they are rearranged and plugged in:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/W39TNh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i.imgur.com/W39TNh.jpg" width="490" /></a></div>
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The 120 radiator is for the motherboard only loop:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/qwrqNh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/qwrqNh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm still working out how to route the tubing for optimal performance without making it look like a mess - should I come out the side or go out the top?<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/DvvKhh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="494" src="http://i.imgur.com/DvvKhh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Although the board has two loops on it, it will really look like it has three as there will be a 560 rad in between the cpu and gpu:<br />
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Motherboard loop routed with temporary fittings - I thought this would look better. I don't really like the way it looks - too busy and crowded, I need to work out a way to keep the tube out the way more. Maybe a memory block would help:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/cO5ARh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/cO5ARh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-78393645319538900412012-05-23T14:05:00.001-07:002012-05-23T14:05:12.633-07:00Sleeving and sponsors!<br />
While I've been busy working on this, my sponsors have been busy with new products. Detroit Thermo has come out with a new block called the "sniper", it's a tiny bit more restrictive but is supposed to have better temps:<br />
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<a href="http://www.dtwaterblocks.com/product_images/m/916/IMG_1851__97689_zoom.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://www.dtwaterblocks.com/product_images/m/916/IMG_1851__97689_zoom.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm hoping to do an apples to apples comparison with the rasa/raystorm/ek hf supreme/5Noz/Sniper :)<br />
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Also Monsoon Free came out with some sexy new rotary fittings:<br />
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<a href="http://geno.boxgods.com/this_is_my_boomstick.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://geno.boxgods.com/this_is_my_boomstick.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Including a special version with optional end plugs:<br />
<br />
[quote]Yes the other version has Light Ports that let you install several different types of plugs. An LED plug that has super bright 15 degree LED's that make your tube glow sort of like a fiber optic cable or neon tube. A temp probe plug. A shorty version of the silver bullets, and of course our standard Monsoon plug. The plugs are available in all 10 Monsoon colors. The Light Port Rotaries will sell for a buck or two more depending on where resellers price them.<br />
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Actually the LED plugs don't come in the two color form shown below, but you get the idea.[/quote]<br />
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<a href="http://geno.boxgods.com/monsoon_light_port.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://geno.boxgods.com/monsoon_light_port.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Excited to use these, but it gives me more decisions to make as to which color to use lol.<br />
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<b>Quick update on my project:</b><br />
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While I was procrastinating sleeving/custom wire harnesses for the power supply I figured I'd work on getting the radiators up and running for the gaming rig - I mounted the AP16s to the 140mm adapters:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/RQZnLh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/RQZnLh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then got ready to resolder and sleve:<br />
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First time sleeving so did a pretty uneven job:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Txzmgh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/Txzmgh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Decided to move that to the back side of the radiator and now that I had my system down, did a much better job on the front side:<br />
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Both sides done, but still awaitng fan headers:<br />
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Mounted back in the case:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/FkeXVh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/FkeXVh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-78106657401212702042012-05-18T18:28:00.001-07:002012-05-18T18:31:19.294-07:00More diversion and some painting!<br />
So Primochill came through on delivering me the replacement tube. They also sent some extras in order to sponsor the build and I guess future builds because there are multiple colors:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/KoJynh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/KoJynh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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two dual gigabit cards came in for the network upgrades:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/bXbcmh.jpg%20" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/bXbcmh.jpg%20" width="640" /></a></div>
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Fitted one to this box:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/CYyvJ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/CYyvJ.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then mounted that box in our rack in the office:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/dQS3wh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i.imgur.com/dQS3wh.jpg" width="488" /></a></div>
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Thought you might like to see our main server - it's a supermicro barebones 4u box that's capable of fitting two gulftown xeons, however we only have one hex cpu fitted right now:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/bj0y5h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="490" src="http://i.imgur.com/bj0y5h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see they built a plastic shroud around the ram and cpu to force the air through the heatsinks. Anyway back to the real project. Sanded down another radiator:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Z9etuh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/Z9etuh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Masked it up:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/FiKSlh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/FiKSlh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Ready to go:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Wxx8Dh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i.imgur.com/Wxx8Dh.jpg" width="490" /></a></div>
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Primed:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/6gxM0h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://i.imgur.com/6gxM0h.jpg" width="490" /></a></div>
<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-54950652470848130872012-05-15T17:00:00.005-07:002012-05-15T17:00:56.257-07:00another diversion<br />
Alright - another diversion to clean up the odds and ends - well I got some packages to help with that:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/wpvZbh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/wpvZbh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Inside a box..... is another box:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/KtwTTh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="484" src="http://i.imgur.com/KtwTTh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And inside - the opposite of a CaseLabs case - cheap design, cheap steel, cheap manufacturing:<br />
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Despite knowing how badly the edges were finished I still managed to cut myself!<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/C5jVzh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/C5jVzh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Mounting the old workstation board:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/Yuslqh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="488" src="http://i.imgur.com/Yuslqh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now let's see what's come in from the egg:<br />
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The PSU for that mATX build I did (those photos were slightly out of order), another ssd (because 7 isn't enough) and a cheapo gpu for the 4u case:<br />
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Passive GPU is passive, crappy sas card is crappy:<br />
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Got those straight to straight sata cables too:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/P3rt8h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/P3rt8h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-34539448558217916102012-05-11T11:27:00.002-07:002012-05-11T11:27:29.046-07:00It's a walk off!<br />
Thanks to everyone - results are in:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/piJ35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="http://i.imgur.com/piJ35.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So now we can eliminate the less popular and simulate these with the motherboard tray - yes it's a walk off! Jeppzer's suggestion is now also included:<br />
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Option C<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/NfxVXh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="396" src="http://i.imgur.com/NfxVXh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Option D<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/9MMYfh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="http://i.imgur.com/9MMYfh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Option G<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/bnu5sh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="http://i.imgur.com/bnu5sh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Option Jeppzer<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/lKg6mh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="414" src="http://i.imgur.com/lKg6mh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Let me know what you think - and please keep it to these four only!<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-16262737191832316562012-05-09T15:57:00.000-07:002012-05-09T16:03:24.829-07:00Sleeving comes in - feedback wanted!<br />
Second update of the day - sleeving came in:<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/m1IyZh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="486" src="http://i.imgur.com/m1IyZh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Always interesting to see stamps from a foreign land ;) And of course the obligatory nils drawing<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/VCvPJh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="512" src="http://i.imgur.com/VCvPJh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The results from the last survery were clear:<br />
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So now I made them with real sleeve (24 pin left and 8 + 6 pin right) (only one row of course) (photographed outside under cloud, the background is the pedestal back plate which is powdercoated the same color as all internal parts):<br />
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/VEyf0h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="390" src="http://i.imgur.com/VEyf0h.jpg" width="640" /></a><a href="http://i.imgur.com/0c2h2h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="354" src="http://i.imgur.com/0c2h2h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/8Fum1h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="402" src="http://i.imgur.com/8Fum1h.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/AnOqyh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="368" src="http://i.imgur.com/AnOqyh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/YvDsBh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="http://i.imgur.com/YvDsBh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/ZrIvsh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="412" src="http://i.imgur.com/ZrIvsh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i.imgur.com/bXPxCh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="414" src="http://i.imgur.com/bXPxCh.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'm leaning towards D or F. However there's one last complication there is red or the "x" color that is basically a deep red-brown kind of color. As far as I can tell, the x looks better when next to white, the red otherwise:<br />
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Let me know what you think!strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-75256693027981323552012-05-09T08:08:00.004-07:002012-05-09T08:08:52.667-07:00X58 swap<br />
Alright time to swap those cpus - out with the 920:<br />
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And in with the 990x:<br />
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Close it up:<br />
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Mount the CPU block and add the g3/8 adapters - luckily the 5Noz has a very wide port spacing:<br />
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Which means you can mount the high flow VL4N quick disconnects - unfortunately they are g 3/8 and don't come with right angle options, so I have to have adapters both ends and then a g1/4 female to female before I can add in the 90 degree rotary fitting:<br />
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Here we are with the old GPUs mounted too:<br />
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And here's how it will look as this will be the reverse ATX side:<br />
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Now it's time to repurpose that clown board:<br />
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And done til the case comes:<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-41684528721033932582012-05-07T19:04:00.001-07:002012-05-07T19:04:24.535-07:00Workstation done (kinda)<br />
Alright a quick update as I got some more time to process photos (on a side note the first mdpc package came woot!)<br />
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I got the workstation back up and running:<br />
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But I had to use the gaming side for location of the power supply as the cables were not long enough to reach the real location. As you can see it makes a good storage room also:<br />
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Workstation in action - no 2nd 8800gt yet because I'm only driving two screens, the card is being used as a test card for now for some other rigs I'm building.<br />
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Again a lot of fittings are temporary. So now back to the gaming rig. I transferred the sweet trident ram from my worksation to the gaming rig (I think it maybe hypers), it can do 2130 CL 8 and probably more but that's the limit of my 990x IMC. Should have tried two sticks in the 3770K rig I slapped together to see what it could really do! The ugly p6t board that was being used for the workstation is now going into a generic network maintenance use and will be put in a rack.<br />
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A shot of that sexy ram:<br />
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And the motherboard tray:<br />
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Here you can see I had soldered on an extra molex connector to the board (just to the bottom of the STX). My old case didn't have room to connect a power cable to the real connector, so this helped me give the gpus enough power.<br />
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And now time to swap the 920 for that sweet 990x:<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-65157557785256806982012-05-05T11:10:00.003-07:002012-05-05T11:10:54.841-07:00PSUs, HDDs and TLAs<br />
So as it's the weekend you get bonus updates :)<br />
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This is how I initially wanted the PSU's to give maximum air intake:<br />
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However the left PSU once it had cables would conflict with the 360 rad mounted in front of it, so I decided to move it:<br />
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Done, you can see there's still a good amount of space in between:<br />
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Now to mount them - they're going in the second to bottom compartment:<br />
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and mounted:<br />
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Now time to mount all the hard drives - here are the gaming rig drives:<br />
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Now let's add in the workstation drives:<br />
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old skool x25e:<br />
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All done:<br />
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Now to cable it - I hate how asus only give you sata cables with right angles at one end and straights at the other. For this build I really need straight to straights, so I had to order some more from the egg, this is the temporary rats nest:<br />
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Yikes!<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1503430015294926187.post-75754460095872451972012-05-04T18:33:00.003-07:002012-05-04T18:33:32.100-07:00Deconstruction part deux<br />
So back to the *real* project. Now that my workstation was up and running, I could take the old one down:<br />
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OMG dust! This is three months worth:<br />
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Still yucky:<br />
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Got out the duster and started taking it apart:<br />
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Nearly done<br />
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Now I've gone and made the kitchen messy again:<br />
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<br />strenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00671187425731799096noreply@blogger.com0